THE RIG
This is pretty much a spin-casting show. A medium-weight spinning rod of at least 8 1/2 feet is recommended. For the most part, 6- to 8-pound steelhead are plentiful in the Columbia at Pateros.

The basic rigging of a slip-bobber rig consists of four elements: the knot, the bead, the bobber and the jig. Each serves a purpose and function in connection with the others. One doesn't work without the other, and they all come together to do just one thing: present bait to waiting steelhead.

This is how the setup goes: Take your main line, usually 6- to 10-pound-test, and tie on a knot. The slip or sliding knot can be difficult to master; it resembles a nail knot used by fly anglers to attach leaders to fly lines. Fortunately, pre-packaged knots, complete with a small tube to run your line through, are available at most sporting goods stores in the area.

This takes all the "trick" out of tying a knot above your bead. If there is a trick, it's learning just how tight to make the knot on your line. It can't be too tight to adjust, but not so loose that it will slide up your line and change the depth of your bobber. This will take some practice and experience. The benefit is that it takes just a minute to replace a knot that's too loose.

Next, string on a bead. The bead must be of a size that won't pass through the tip guide of your rod, and the hole in the bead can't be large enough to allow the knot to pass into it. Let the bead slide up the line and see it's the right size. If it sticks to the knot while fishing, it's pretty frustrating.

The bobber goes below the bead. Bobbers come in a variety of sizes and colors. Most are 3 to 6 inches in length, with a plastic "straw" extending a couple of inches from the top and the bottom. Some are nearly round, and others are straight sided. People have their preferences, but the idea is to be able to cast this a reasonable distance and be able to see it clearly. Some anglers even place a Corky below the knot so it rests on top of the bobber to increase visibility. It is important to use a bobber of enough buoyancy to keep afloat when the weight of the jig and bait are added below it.

The last item to add to this setup is the jig. There are nearly as many styles, sizes and colors of jigs as there are plastic baits for bass fishing. I have often found anglers staring with glazed eyes at the selection of jigs hanging on the wall of a sporting goods store, wondering which one will be the answer. Most experienced anglers know that there is a purpose for the different styles and colors, and they carry a selection of jigs in their tackle boxes. The answer can change from day to day.

Jigs come in two basic materials: marabou and deer hair. There are advantages to both and reasons why certain anglers choose one over the other.

The breathing action of marabou makes this material appealing to steelhead. Even the slightest current or twitch of the line will make marabou undulate in the water. However, if you like to apply scent to your bait, forget marabou. Once scent is applied to marabou, it's history. It loses its breathing ability and becomes stiff, and you cannot get the scent off of the jig. It's toast.

Anglers who like to add scent to their baits choose deer hair jigs. Scent has no impact at all on the performance of a deer hair jig. Deer hair jigs maintain their profile and offer a tantalizing silhouette to steelhead. Some anglers say deer hair jigs are arguably as effective as marabou, with the added advantage of holding scent.